Menus which change for every meal are short and to the point about seasonality and vibrancy and bolstered by a couple of dishes — one usually a main course for sharing — written on a blackboard. Two of those that we tried were an excellent Aussie-leaning steak pie with rich, dark gravy and buttery shortcrust pastry — “My favourite bit is the pastry,” said a waiter who I thought I remembered from the Anchor & Hope — and a French textbook cassoulet where the white beans, humming a garlicky tune, were precisely the right texture.
Three ace first courses — besides that foie gras toastie bar snack — were butterbean and black cabbage broth in which the tang of bacon might have tripped up a vegetarian, leeks gribiche where the salty, savoury, herby mayo was bristling with finely chopped hard-boiled egg, and a bowl of steamed mussels perfect in their simplicity.
The main course for one of roast “Cob” chicken with sauce soubise and watercress was the only time a dish faltered. Onion sauce — the meaning of soubise — is lovely with lamb but in my view less so with chicken, however crisp the skin (which it was). Little chocolate pot topped with pouring cream at a little price (£3.60) was the ideal dessert in composition and quantity and crème fraîche tart with pink rhubarb was heaven.
The amiable staff have been directed to be a bit Anchor & Hopeless about accepting bookings for groups of fewer than eight but they are willing to predict the chances of a table. It is a punt well worth taking even if Stockwell isn’t your manor.
Thanks to David for pointing it out.
I've been to the Canton last night and thought I'd add my view as well.
ReplyDeleteAfter so many great reviews, my expectations for my first meal at the Canton were quite high. Perhaps tood high.
We were seated quickly, but then were ignored for quite a while before we could order drinks (which were then slow to come), and eventually food. I got the feeling the wait staff was a bit stretched and disorganized. And really, I don't understand the point of attempting table service in a pub if you're not going to do it well (ref. Anglesea Arms). The bar is only a few feet away - really I don't mind going to ask for a pint!
The menu didn't show the level of culinary ambition I'd read about in reviews, nor did it encompass pub standards like battered fish or a burger. I would have liked the option of a salad starter or main. My table ordered two haunches of venison and two Barnsley (lamb) chops. They were substantial pieces of meat and people were generally pleased. I had a plate of lentils, tomatoes, and goat cheese, a nice combination of flavors. It was peircingly garlicky, and a bit too oily, though. The cheese plate I had to round off the meal was decent - three cheeses the waiter didn't bother to name, one of which I quite liked.
All-in, a fairly unexceptional experience. Of course I'll be back - it is our local - but I doubt I'll make a point of it. On a Thursday, I probably would have had a better time at the quiz at the Wheatsheaf.